A Family Affair

The Van Cleef & Arpels story begins in 1895 with the marriage of Esther Arpels, the daughter of a jewellery salesman, to Alfred Van Cleef, the son of a lapidary craftsman. In 1906, Alfred Van Cleef partnered with Esther’s brother, Charles Arpels, to open the first Van Cleef & Arpels boutique located in the centre of Paris at 22 Place Vendôme. Van Cleef & Arpels has remained at that iconic address ever since.

Two years later, Esther’s brother Jules (also known as Julien), a specialist in gemstones, joined the business. In 1912, her youngest brother Louis, who was celebrated as a “marketing genius”, joined the Maison. With Esther herself also involved, the venture truly became a family affair.

The First World War abruptly stalled the company’s momentum. All of the men, except Alfred, who was exempted for health reasons, were enlisted, leaving Alfred to manage the business alone. During this period, Esther served as a nurse, where she tended to a young lieutenant, Émile Puissant. Fate later reunited them when Émile married her daughter Renée in 1918. He soon joined the firm as administrative director, bringing a forward-thinking vision that reshaped the Maison. Through bold advertising campaigns and the then unusual introduction of seasonal sales in the world of fine jewellery, he helped elevate the house to new heights. Continuing the family legacy, Alfred and Esther’s daughter Renée became Artistic Director of Van Cleef & Arpels in 1926.

The Cadenas Wristwatch

Attributed to Renée Puissant, the Cadenas watch was first introduced in 1935 and soon became one of Van Cleef & Arpels’ most iconic creations. Its name, meaning padlock in French, reflects the distinctive design: a prism-shaped case with a hexagonal base, topped by a hoop resembling a padlock, and paired with a double snake-chain bracelet.

The Cadenas embodied the refined geometry of Art Deco, balancing sculptural flair with clarity of form. At a time when etiquette discouraged openly checking the hour, its angled dial allowed the wearer to discreetly glance at the time. An elegant example of the Cadenas with a squared gold tone dial, dot hour markers and blued steel hands sold at Dreweatts for £5,292.

Lovebirds

The extensive Lovebirds collection was first introduced in June 1944 and quickly became a treasured part of the Maison’s animal repertory. Inspired by the parrot species which are known for lifelong devotion to a single partner, these creations combined artistry with symbolism.

Early versions varied in composition, from pairs to broods of four, sometimes nestled in “woven” gold nests with platinum eggs. In 1945, the designs evolved to include cabochon rubies, emeralds, or sapphires which formed the birds’ bodies, adding vivid colour to the previously two-tone jewels. More elaborate models placed the birds on ornate perches or inside dovecotes.

Dreweatts is delighted to have sold a 1950s ‘Lovebirds’ charm bracelet at auction for £106,450, proving that the Lovebirds collection remains an enduring symbol of affection, family, and the beauty of nature.

Charming Animal Clips

In the 1950s, Van Cleef & Arpels redefined high jewelry with La Boutique, a collection designed for modern, everyday wear. Among its creations emerged a whimsical menagerie of animal clips that combined artistry with playful charm.

Inspired by early animated films, these delightful creatures were crafted with a touch of humour and fantasy. Whether puckish or serene, each piece captured a unique spirit, evoking the lively world of cartoons while maintaining the Maison’s signature elegance.

Clients adored the gallery of characters, from curious foxes to gentle elephants, each with its own personality. These jewels became more than adornments, they were companions, chosen to reflect the wearer’s mood or disposition.

Over time, the family of clips grew into a cherished tradition. Endearing, mischievous, or quietly noble, they remain irresistible collectibles, treasured both as gifts and as expressions of individuality.

From this collection Dreweatts sold a charming standing rabbit brooch, crafted from rope-twist strands and set with a cabochon emerald eye, eight-cut diamonds forming the eyebrow, and a circular-cut ruby nose. The brooch sold for £8,820.

Alhambra

The Alhambra collection debuted in 1968, offering a fresh and modern contrast to the glitz and glamour of the 1950s. Its first creation was a long necklace featuring twenty quatrefoil motifs in yellow gold and mother of pearl, setting the tone for one of Van Cleef & Arpels’ most enduring designs.

The motif was inspired by the architecture of the Alhambra Palace in Granada, Spain, where quatrefoils appear throughout the design. It is also a universal emblem of luck, embodying optimism and harmony. Following its launch, the Alhambra collection quickly gained recognition and soon became synonymous with the house.

Grace Kelly was among its most famous admirers and was often photographed wearing multiple Alhambra necklaces layered together, which helped to cement the collection’s iconic status.

At auction, Dreweatts sold a mother of pearl and chalcedony Alhambra necklace for £11,340, while a shorter variation with a single mother of pearl quatrefoil motif achieved £1,638.

Exquisite sapphires and diamonds

Dreweatts was delighted to present at auction a remarkable Van Cleef & Arpels yellow sapphire and diamond brooch, offered together with a matching pair of earrings. These exquisite jewels once belonged to Ann Fleming, wife of literary icon Ian Fleming, the celebrated creator of James Bond.

These were acquired for Ann in 1938 at Van Cleef & Arpels during a weekend in Paris with her husband and friends. Each jewel is designed as a flower head, with cushion shaped yellow sapphire petals surrounding a cluster of circular cut sapphires at the centre, set against polished gold leaves. The brooch is further enhanced with sapphire accents and intricately worked leaves set with diamonds, adding both brilliance and refinement. This exceptional set achieved £40,200 at auction.

Learn more about Ann Fleming and the Van Cleef & Arpels jewels.

The Rose de Noël

Since the 1970s, Van Cleef & Arpels has celebrated the Christmas rose through its enchanting Rose de Noël collection. Blooming in the depths of winter, the flower is a timeless symbol of hope and joy. Each jewel in the collection combines the brilliance of diamonds with the luminous beauty of ornamental stones, capturing both elegance and romance. At auction, a pair of white coral and diamond Rose de Noël earrings were sold by Dreweatts for £10,625.

Enduring Legacy

Today, the Maison continues to create innovative and elegant jewellery, drawing inspiration from its rich archives. In recent years, a series of retrospective exhibitions held around the world has celebrated its legacy, ensuring that Van Cleef & Arpels’ creations are as admired today as they have been for over a century.

Auction Highlights

Dreweatts Auctions

Dreweatts regularly offers jewellery and watches from luxury brands such as Van Cleef & Arpels at auctions, with previews at our gallery on Pall Mall, London and at our country-house salerooms in Newbury. The market for jewellery and watches is truly global and Dreweatts operates at both a local and an international level, with buyers and consignors from all over the world.

Upcoming auctions

For more information about the upcoming auctions and to stay updated with the latest news, sign up for email alerts, here.

Request a valuation

For a free auction valuation, please contact the Dreweatts Jewellery Department on: +44 (0) 1635 553 553 | jsw@dreweatts.com or complete our online valuation form here.