Charles Lewis Tiffany’s Innovation, Vision, and Craftsmanship

Tiffany & Co. have won many accolades and awards for their exceptional silverware and jewellery, earning a reputation for innovation, elegance, and superior quality. In 1886, Charles Tiffany revolutionised engagement rings by introducing the iconic ‘Tiffany Setting’. The design is flawlessly engineered by its six-prong setting which is virtually hidden and allows the diamond to float above the band and into the light for maximum brilliance. The elegant design gained immense popularity and has been embraced by numerous brands. A 'Tiffany Setting' diamond single stone ring was sold by Dreweatts for £567.

Charles Lewis Tiffany was a pioneering entrepreneur with a deep passion for sourcing rare and exceptional gemstones. In 1878 he purchased one of the largest and most celebrated fancy yellow diamonds in the world. The rough stone weighed a staggering 287.42 carats, which was expertly cut the following year into a breathtaking 128.54-carat gemstone, later christened the Tiffany Diamond. The stone is a symbol of Tiffany’s visionary artistry and innovation.

In 1887, the French Third Republic decided to sell the crown jewels, at an auction held in Paris. Charles Tiffany attended the auction and hit the headlines when he won 24 Lots totalling $480,000. The pieces were later used to create Tiffany designs and sold to America’s high society. With bold acquisitions such as these the press labelled Tiffany. “The King of Diamonds.”

Art Deco Design

In the 1920s and 1930s, Art Deco design was prominent across, architecture, interior design, fashion, and jewellery. The style can be characterised by its use of clean lines, geometric forms, and luxurious materials. During this time Tiffany & Co produced exquisite pieces including this circlet brooch, set with old cut diamonds and fancy cut sapphires. The brooch sold for £1,736 at a Dreweatts auction.

The Art Deco aesthetic has remained a timeless symbol of elegance, and has continued to inspire Tiffany & Co., as visible in this beautiful pendant from the ‘Voile’ collection which sold at Dreweatts for £3,276

The Tiffany ‘T’ Collection

The T design first appeared in Tiffany & Co.’s ‘Blue Book’ catalogue in 1975-1976 in the form of a 14K gold bracelet which integrated the letter ‘T’ into the design. This marked one of the first times a house monogram was used in fine jewellery. The design was inspired by the spirit of New York, a city Charles Lewis Tiffany saw as a land of promise and opportunity, the letter ‘T’ mirrors the city’s sleek, intersecting lines.

In 2014 Tiffany & Co. launched the ‘T Collection’, which drew inspiration from the archival bracelet. The jewellery was crafted from high-quality materials such as sterling silver, 18k gold, or rose gold. A ‘Tiffany T’ square hinged bangle has sold at Dreweatts for £4,000 and is a perfect example of Tiffany & Co.’s ability to combine its rich heritage of craftsmanship with a modern, fresh approach to design. It has become a symbol of modern luxury, loved for its versatility and simplicity, it can be worn alone for a chic understated look or stacked with other bracelets for a more personalised layered style.

Tiffany & Co. collaborations

Tiffany & Co. has a long history of collaborations with renowned designers, artists, and celebrities, which have helped shape the brand's legacy of innovation and luxury. Some of the most significant collaborations have resulted in iconic collections that blend Tiffany's timeless craftsmanship with fresh, creative perspectives. Here are some of the most notable Tiffany & Co. collaborations that have sold at Dreweatts.

Elsa Peretti and Tiffany & Co.

Elsa Peretti joined Tiffany & Co. in 1974 and has made a significant impact with her innovative designs. Peretti's work was notable for its elegance and modernity, combining sleek minimalistic forms with Tiffany’s craftsmanship. Inspired by nature, her designs quickly became synonymous with contemporary luxury, and she gained a dedicated following of women who appreciated her unique bold aesthetic. Peretti revolutionised the jewellery world by championing the use of silver alongside traditional gold, portrayed in these Nine Italian Silver Thumbprint Salt Cellars.

Her collaboration with Tiffany & Co. helped make Tiffany & Co. products more accessible and versatile to a broader range of customers, as can be seen in this pair of 18ct gold 'teardrop' earrings. Elsa Peretti’s designs remain a significant part of Tiffany & Co. collections and continue to define the brand’s luxurious yet modern approach to jewellery design.

Paloma Picasso and Tiffany & Co.

Paloma Picasso, the daughter of Pablo Picasso and Françoise Gilot, has expressed her creativity from a young age. In 1979, she began her association with Tiffany & Co., starting with a table setting design for an exhibition. This initial project led to a long-term collaboration and the debut of her signature Paloma’s Graffiti collection, inspired by the energy of New York street art. During the 1980s, she brought bold, often underappreciated gemstones into the spotlight, capturing the vibrant, glamorous spirit of the decade.

Jean Schlumberger and Tiffany & Co.

In 1956, Tiffany & Co. partnered with Jean Schlumberger, a French jewellery designer known for his whimsical and nature-inspired creations. Schlumberger's vibrant coloured and intricate designs such as his famous Bird on a Rock brooch and Paisley collection captivated the fashion world. His collaboration with Tiffany & Co. elevated the brand’s reputation as a designer destination and seamlessly blended its New York heritage with Parisian elegance.

Jewellery created within this collaboration became synonymous with luxury and elegance, gaining popularity with icons such as Elizabeth Taylor, Jackie Kennedy, and Babe Paley. An excellent example of their partnership can be seen in this spectacular Star Sapphire and Diamond Dress Ring which sold at Dreweatts for £68,750.

Patek Philippe and Tiffany & Co.

Patek Philippe is an independent Swiss watchmaker known for creating some of the finest timepieces in the world. Since 1851 they have had a long-standing partnership with Tiffany & Co. and together have created exquisite luxury watches. Notable co-signed models have included watches within their Calatrava, Gondolo, and Nautilus collections.

To celebrate 150 years of partnership between Patek Philippe and Tiffany & Co, a special edition anniversary watch was released in 2001. Crafted from 18 carat gold, this commemorative watch features the branding of both Patek Philippe and Tiffany & Co. The watch was only available through Tiffany & Co. stores, making it highly sought after by collectors. We were delighted to offer one at Dreweatts in 2021 which sold for £37,500.

Tiffany & Co. Auction Highlights

Dreweatts Auctions

Dreweatts regularly offers jewellery and luxury accessories from brands such as Tiffany & Co. at auction, with previews at our gallery on Pall Mall, London and at our country-house salerooms in Newbury. The market for jewellery and luxury accessories is truly global and Dreweatts operates at both a local and an international level, with buyers and consignors from all over the world.

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For a free auction valuation, please contact the Dreweatts Luxury Accessories Department on: +44 (0) 1635 553 553 | jsw@dreweatts.com or complete our online valuation form here.