Silverware to Jewellery: The Evolution of Sotirios’s Curiosity Shop

For several years, Sotirios concentrated on selling silverware including both his own creations and antique pieces. However, as his success grew, he expanded by opening additional stores with the help of friends and family from back home. His inventory broadened to include a diverse selection of jewellery, antiques, and curios.

Sotirio would eventually open a larger store on Via Condotti in 1905 which he called ‘The Old Curiosity Shop’, after the Charles Dickens novel, to attract British and American customers. In the 1920s his sons Giorgio and Costantino joined him in the business. Giorgio travelled frequently to Paris for design inspirations, while Costantino, more academically inclined, extended the company’s famous collection of antique silver for display in store.

The introduction of the iconic 'Trombino' Design

After their father’s passing in 1932, Giorgio and Costantino undertook a major store refurbishment, and famously rebranded as BVLGARI, with U replaced by the Latin V. It was also the decade that saw the first 'Trombino' ('Little Trumpet') rings, one of Bulgari's most successful and enduring designs. The Trombino is characterised by a band made of pavé-set diamonds flanking a file of baguette cut diamonds that allowed the principal gemstone to stand out on top. A dazzling example of this ostentatious design containing two old cut diamonds in the centre, was sold at Dreweatts for £39,680.

The 'Serpenti' Collection

The 1940s marked the debut of one of the house’s most iconic creations, the ‘Serpenti’. For over 75 years, this captivating design has continued to enchant audiences, constantly evolving - much like a serpent shedding its skin. Originally introduced as a gold bracelet-watch, the design showcased the innovative ‘Tubogas’ technique. Its flexible, coiled construction offered a seamless blend of comfort and elegance, setting a new standard in both form and function. A stunning 1970s version with tricoloured Tubogas linking sold at auction with Dreweatts for £12,600.

The recognisable design has been worn by numerous celebrities and fashion icons over the years. One of the earliest fans of the design was Elizabeth Taylor who wore a gold and diamond Serpenti watch during the filming of Cleopatra in the 1960s.

The design of the Serpenti wristwatch evolved significantly over time, and by the 1960s, a variation was constructed with gold sheets that were meticulously screwed and pivoted together. A white gold spring was hidden inside the bangle, giving the piece remarkable flexibility. This striking example, dating to around 1965, is adorned with orangey-brown, brown, and white enamel scales, and is further enhanced by pear-shaped diamond eyes. The mouth cleverly opens to reveal a circular dial. This exceptional piece was sold at auction by Dreweatts for £87,700.

Learn more about the history and design of the iconic Bulgari Serpenti collection.

The 'Tubogas'

The iconic Tubogas technique remains a beloved and adaptable design, featured in a wide array of pieces including watches, rings, bracelets, and necklaces. As a radiant symbol of innovation, movement, and exceptional gold craftsmanship, Bulgari’s Tubogas reinterprets a classic method through a lens of modern creativity.

This bi-colored Tubogas collar necklace from the 1970s exemplifies the timeless design style of the Tubogas collection and could easily be mistaken for a contemporary creation. Its sleek lines, seamless curves, and bold yet refined aesthetic reflect a modern sensibility that transcends decades.

This diamond ring masterfully blends the iconic Tubogas and Serpenti styles. Crafted using the Tubogas technique, it coils elegantly around the finger in the distinctive Serpenti fashion. The design culminates in a collet set pear cut diamond, evoking the striking form of a serpent's head.

The 'Contraire' Design

Another quintessential Bulgari design is the ‘Contraire’ - French for ‘opposite’. This style often features opposing snakeheads or contrasting gemstone settings. A striking example was sold at auction by Dreweatts for £4,788. One end of the piece showcases a cultured pearl, while the other features a flowerhead composed of five pear-shaped, vari-coloured sapphire petals.

Bulgari Auction Highlights

Dreweatts Auctions

Dreweatts regularly offers jewellery and watches from luxury brands such as Bulgari at auctions, with previews at our gallery on Pall Mall, London and at our country-house salerooms in Newbury. The market for jewellery and watches is truly global and Dreweatts operates at both a local and an international level, with buyers and consignors from all over the world.

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For a free auction valuation, please contact the Dreweatts Jewellery Department on: +44 (0) 1635 553 553 | jsw@dreweatts.com or complete our online valuation form here.